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> Auxiliary Headlight Relays, Installing H4's
Artfrombama
post Sep 14 2026, 11:50 AM
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I've decided to install a pair of H4 headlights with a little more power (55w low, 100w hi beam).
Will I need an auxiliary relay in addition to the factory one above the fuse block?

Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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Dave_Darling
post Sep 15 2026, 04:06 AM
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You may not need to, but it's a good idea to. The stock setup runs all of the headlight current through the ignition switch, which does it no favors.

If you set up the relays correctly, you can use the old power wires just as triggers to switch the relays on, and then run battery power (through a fuse!!) to the relay and then from the output of the relay to the bulb. Either one relay for the high beam circuit and one for the low, or if you're ambitious you could do one for each side for each beam...

--DD
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Shivers
post Sep 15 2026, 07:17 AM
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QUOTE(Artfrombama @ Sep 14 2026, 10:50 AM) *

I've decided to install a pair of H4 headlights with a little more power (55w low, 100w hi beam).
Will I need an auxiliary relay in addition to the factory one above the fuse block?

Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)


I'm doing that now. I really do not like adding to the electrical system.
I put in a duel relay and some fused links if I want to add something later, in a box.
I ran a #10 wire run from the battery to the relay box inside. Trigger wire inside
from the switch will draw an amp or two. I put it inside to protect it.
I have a single relay says it is waterproof that goes in the engine compartment for the rear fog light.

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anderssj
post Sep 15 2026, 09:38 AM
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There’s a thread here about using the JWest relay kit for early 911s; see second post:

www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=364705

I followed these steps and did the same to my car (‘72). And these relays also play nice with the JWest fog light flasher module.

Hope this helps!
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barefoot
post Sep 15 2026, 11:06 AM
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Why not convert to LED bulbs instead, there are the out there that plug into H4 sockets, then don't need more relays & get better lighting.
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Jamie
post Sep 15 2026, 11:45 AM
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QUOTE(barefoot @ Sep 15 2026, 09:06 AM) *

Why not convert to LED bulbs instead, there are the out there that plug into H4 sockets, then don't need more relays & get better lighting.

That's what I did, and better light with less draw on the old wiring system. Plug and play! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Artfrombama
post Sep 15 2026, 03:20 PM
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QUOTE(Jamie @ Sep 15 2026, 12:45 PM) *

QUOTE(barefoot @ Sep 15 2026, 09:06 AM) *

Why not convert to LED bulbs instead, there are the out there that plug into H4 sockets, then don't need more relays & get better lighting.

That's what I did, and better light with less draw on the old wiring system. Plug and play! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

1. Old fart/old school
2. H4's were a gift
3. Prefer the classic look
4. Serviceable
5. Get off my lawn!
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Ishley
post Sep 15 2026, 03:36 PM
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I installed them without a relay. No issues
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Ninja
post Sep 15 2026, 07:06 PM
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Relays always!

Does two things.

Saves your fragile 50-year-old switchgear by removing amperage from it.
Relays (at least good ones) pull almost nothing.

Voltage drop to your load is greatly reduced and "available" voltage at the load is maximized.

I am positive that adding a properly wired relay will make even the original light bulbs brighter than they were when new.

I upfitted a 73 240Z with H4s, eurospec bulbs, Bosch 40 amp relays (2), 12g wiring and bulb sockets. I reduced the wiring run to the filaments by 15 feet, and sourced power from the alternator power lug.

The little fuse/relay pack I made was VERY similar to the previously posted one.
Cost me WAY more than $18 to make...

Original owner was blow away at how bright his lights were.
The lights would MELT snow falling in front of them 10 feet away when stopped.

Flame throwers...

Old school halogens, done right, Kick ASS!
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Dave97
post Sep 15 2026, 08:26 PM
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How about adding the relays next to the fuse box? Put the relay in between the fuse box and the wiring going to the headlights
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Artfrombama
post Sep 16 2026, 06:39 AM
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QUOTE(Dave97 @ Sep 15 2026, 09:26 PM) *

How about adding the relays next to the fuse box? Put the relay in between the fuse box and the wiring going to the headlights

looking at the wiring schematic, there is a white wire (hi beam) and a yellow wire (low beam) that run from the column switch to the fuses. Looks like an ideal location to add relays, and no wires need to be cut. I would need to run a 10-12ga. batt+ to the auxiliary relays.
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cdn914
post Sep 16 2026, 12:31 PM
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I have used the H4s on my 1970 (914-6) since the mid 1980s and never had a problem.
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914Sixer
post Sep 16 2026, 04:48 PM
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Read the factory manual instructions. Euro cars came with H4. Does not need extra relay. Click to open page.


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Dave_Darling
post Sep 17 2026, 08:37 PM
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I don't think the factory option H4s were 55W / 100W. That's a bunch more power to be putting through your ignition switch.

It will definitely work in the short term! In the long term?

--DD
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914Sixer
post Sep 18 2026, 01:57 PM
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DD, I missed the 100W on high, Factory H4 55/60, my bad.
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